The Annotated Wriggly Pattern

Here’s a second version of my Wriggly Ripple pattern, a chatty one with several helpful tips and answers to questions…

Finished Size: Approximately 35″ wide and 54″ long when made with 84 rows

Yarn Required: Approximately 25 ounces of a worsted or aran weight yarn, something like Red Heart Super Saver. It may also be called Medium weight or have the #4 yarn weight symbol on its label.

Crochet Hook: I use a size H (5.0 mm).

Beginning Chain: Chain 134… loosely!

Tip: You can save yourself some time by not recounting chain stitches.

I don’t like double-checking to be sure that I actually have 134, so I just chain 136. This means I usually have two chain stitches leftover after I crochet my first row and I’ll have to undo them before I can weave in the beginning yarn end. But, since I can do that more quickly than counting 134 stitches, I don’t mind! lol. Check for yourself by counting while you undo the first two stitches of your chain. I’m sure you won’t get anywhere near 134. lol.

FAQ – Why all the fuss about chaining loosely?

  • If the chain stitches are too tight it will be much more difficult to get your hook into them to work your first row of dcs.
  • Your first row will be shorter than any other row of your blanket, distorting its shape.
  • A tight chain makes a hard ridge at the blanket’s edge.

FAQ – How do I know if my chain stitches are loose enough?

If you’re having a hard time inserting your hook into the chain so you can work the first row, then your chain stitches are too tight. Save yourself some time – make just ten chain stitches and try to work double-crochets into them. Repeat this exercise until it’s comfortable to do the double-crochets.

Tip: If you having problems making a loose chain, try using a hook one size larger to make your chain.

An Equally Important Tip: If you do move up one hook size – you must remember to switch back to the smaller sized hook before you begin Row One or you’ll have a more loosely crocheted blanket than you planned. You know how I learned this! lol.

There are three ways to work into a chain:

#1 – Many of us were taught to work into the top of the chain. The top of a chain stitch looks just like the top of a single or double-crochet stitch. It has a pair of parallel yarn strands. You insert the hook under both strands.

#2 – Some of us work under just one of those top strands, commonly called the front loop or back loop. This is easier and faster than working under both, but it can deceive us into believing that our chain is loose enough, when it’s really not.

#3 – I like working into the bottom, or back, of the chain best. It resembles a spine made of short single strand bumps. If you can easily insert your hook under each back bump, then you know that you’ve made your chain loose enough. Working into the back of the chain has the added advantage of making the bottom (beginning) edge of your blanket look just like its top (ending) edge.

THE PATTERN:

Row 1:

Make a dc in the 5th chain from the hook. Dc in the next 8 chains. You’ve just completed your first “turning chain” and the first uphill run of 9 dcs. Yay!

Tip: Your beginning point may be curling. Gently tugging on your work is usually all that’s required to smooth it out.

And back to the pattern:

Chain 2 to make an increase for the first peak.

Do a downhill run of 9 dcs by working 1 dc into the same chain stitch as where you made the last dc and then dc in the next 8 chains. This completes the first large point.

To do a decrease in the valley, skip 2 chains.

Make an uphill run of 4 dcs in a row.

Chain 2 to make an increase for the second peak.

Do a downhill run of 4 dcs by working 1 dc into the same chain you used for the fourth dc in the uphill run and then work 3 dcs in a row. You’ve finished your first small point.

Make one large and then one small point – three more times. Each large point has 9 dcs per side, each small point has 4 dcs per side. Make a chain 2 increase on each peak and skip 2 chains as a decrease in each valley. Eight points completed, four large and four small.

Work one last large point, then skip 1 chain and dc in next chain.

Note: If you added extra stitches onto your beginning chain so you didn’t have to check your stitch count, you probably have one or two chain stitches remaining. You can undo them now or wait until after you’ve finished your blanket.

Row 2:

Chain 3. This is your turning chain. Turn your work.

Skip one dc then make an uphill run by working a dc in each of the next 8 dc stitches. You’re at the peak of your first large point. Dc into the chain-2 space.

Make a Chain 2 increase.

Do a downhill run of 9 dcs by working 1 dc into the chain-2 space of the peak and then 8 dcs in a row. You’ve finished the first large point.

Make a decrease by skipping the two chains in the valley.

Dc in the next 3 stitches, which brings you to the peak of your first small point. Dc into the chain-2 space.

Chain 2 increase.

Do a downhill run of 4 dcs by working 1 dc into the chain-2 space of the peak and then 3 dcs in a row. You’ve finished the first small point.

Make one large point and then one small point – three more times. Eight points completed.

Make one last large point. Skip one dc, dc in last dc.

Rows 3 thru 84, or higher:

Repeat Row 2 until you reach 54″ or your preferred length.

Regarding Borders/Edges: I’ve never put a border on a ripple. I don’t think one is necessary. However, when I started crocheting ripples, I thought their side edges were rather flimsy. I blamed this on the three-stitch turning chains and I looked for a different method, hoping to create a more substantial feeling edge.

Here’s a Bethintx1 video, which shows how to do an “Alternative Double Crochet Turning Chain” (the demo begins 1:10 into the video). I start in the same way as in the video, by turning my work and then making a sc in the base of the loop on my hook, but next, instead of making two more scs on top of the first, I simply make two chain stitches.

I hope you found at least some of these many tips helpful.

Please let me know immediately if you find any errors in this pattern. You can either leave a comment here or leave me (Linda74) a pm in Ravelry.

I’d also love to hear all about the Wriggly Ripple you make!

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This entry was posted in Afghan Patterns, Afghan Techniques and Patterns, Wriggly Ripples and tagged , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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